Ocean City Restaurant, Philadelphia, PA

Shrimp Shumai

Dim sum after a night of drinking too much and dancing at a Mighty Mighty Bosstones’ show has become a tradition.  This summer I hit the show in Philadelphia and luckily Philly has a Chinatown.  It is centered around Vine and Arch streets downtown and has been around since the 1870’s.  We picked Ocean City Restaurant solely based on the fact that it opens at 10 am, early enough that we could eat and make our flights home.  Ocean City Restaurant is an old school dim sum palace, with big round tables and carts that are pushed around the restaurant that you choose small plates and steamer baskets from.

Steamed Shrimp Dumplings and Pork and Shrimp Shumai

The Dumplings:  We got to the restaurant just as it opened and we were the only diners there for most of our breakfast.  It was pretty clear the kitchen was not yet going full force and there were only three carts prowling around the restaurant floor.  The steamed Shrimp Har Gow were on the first cart that came by and we grabbed them.  The shrimp were really sweet and tasted fresh but the rice flower wrappers around the dumplings were floppy and did not hold the shrimp together in a bundle very well.

The other two dumpling options available that early in service were the Shrimp Shumai and the Pork and Shrimp Shumai.  The Shumai at Ocean City are quite big, two to three bites each and the Shrimp ones were the better of the two.  Once again the shrimp were fresh and really sweet and because they were coarsely chopped they had a good crunch/pop when I bit into them.  The Pork and Shrimp ones were tasty but had glued together in the steamer so it was tough to pry them out in one piece.  Basically I had to deconstruct them to get them onto my plate.

The Location:  Ocean City Restaurant is on North 9th Street between Race  and Vine streets, at the edge of Chinatown.  It is a pretty desolate location, across from a parking lot and a stones throw from Highway 676.

Posted in Dim Sum, How Gar, Philadelphia, Pork, Shrimp, Shumai | Leave a comment

Telegraph Street Area, Berkeley, CA

Telegraph Street is the main commercial strip abutting the UC Berkeley campus with lots of Korean, Japanese, Chinese and fusion joints catering to UC Berkeley’s students.  I expected that this would be a good restaurant row to spend an afternoon eating dumplings but I was a little bit disappointed.

Despite its name, everyone at Famous Bao was eating bubbling cauldron hot-pot dishes, not a single diner had a steamer of buns in front of them.  The menu only lists two types of bao; Juicy Pork and Cabbage Bao and Pork and Mushroom Shrimp Bao, and the day I was there they only had the Pork and Cabbage variety.  They also have a selection of Xi’an hand pulled noodle dishes and chopped seasoned lamb or pork “burger” sandwiches that are becoming popular in New York City.

The Bao come eight to an order and are really big, to the point where the steamers they use are not large enough to hold all eight in one layer, so the bao are cooked piled up in the steamer.  The bao lacked the promised juice but were really tasty.  The bun bread was slightly sweet and the pork was well seasoned and savory.  The cabbage actually also contributed to the filling, I could taste the slightly cruciferous flavor and it was roughly chopped so that it added texture and crunch to the filling.  I guess the hot-pot dishes must be really something special to have drawn the rest of the diners away from what were really good bao.

House ware for sale at Dumpling Express

Dumpling Express sounds like it belongs in an outdated airport food court, but has some really interesting things going on.  The place is small and has a narrow counter that can seat about 8-10 people, and has weirdly devoted precious space to stocking and selling plates, bowls, tea cups, chop-sticks and soup spoons.  Behind the counter there was a woman hand rolling dough and stuffing and pleating dumplings lightening fast. Orders were flying out of the kitchen to a continuously refreshing pool of people milling around in the entryway hoping that their order number would be called just as room opened up at the counter.  But it seems that if you are lucky enough to get a seat at the counter its OK to linger and check Facebook on your phone, no one vacated their precious counter spot while I was there.

Over cooked pork dumplings.

Dumpling Express has a large selection of dumplings, most of which come 12 to an order and since I hadn’t yet walked off the bao and was pretty full, I chose the fried pork dumplings which are 6 to an order.  This was a big mistake, as the order I got were over deep-fried into crunchy nuggets of flavorless-ness, even with sauce I could only bring myself to eat two of them.  Everyone else was slurpy down plates of boiled or steamed dumplings that looked really good.  The choices are:  Shanghai Soup Dumplings with Pork or Pork and Crab; Pork or Chicken Dumplings with Napa Cabbage; Fried Pork or Chicken Dumplings; Pork Dumplings with Kim Chi “Spicy”; Chicken Dumplings with Corn; Beef Dumplings with Celery; Lamb Dumplings with Vegetables; and Shrimp Dumplings with Chives.  I chose badly, don’t make the same mistake I did.

Off of Durant Street there is partially covered alley/cul de sac food court that among others, is home to  small Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese and Chinese restaurants.  Each has seating for maybe 10 or 12 people, with additional picnic style tables in the alley.  I was still feeling the bao when I found this nook of restaurants and couldn’t bring myself to order any more dumplings.  Next time I am in town I will definitely try the steamed dim sum dumplings at Mandarin House, its the Chinese restaurant that has made the design choice of using 8 1/2 by 11 photos of the food to cover every inch of the exterior and interior.

Also on Durant there is a Korean restaurant and a Chinese restaurant on the second floor, above the Korean place.  While every other place I saw was packed with Asian students, both of these restaurants were empty and looked sketchy.

To summarize: 1) do not get loaded down with bao at Famous Bao, pace yourself and take leftovers home or bring a friend or two to share an order, 2) do not order the fried dumplings at Dumpling Express, get the boiled ones, they are what everyone else is eating there; and 3) check out the Chinese restaurant in the alleyway off Durant.

Posted in Buns, Pork, Potsticker, San Francisco | Leave a comment

Ginto, San Francisco, CA

One of Gintos giant kabuki mask wall hangings

Ginto is advertised as an izakaya and sushi bar and is part of the Tokyo based Rama restaurant group that runs over 150 restaurants mainly in Asia.  Izakaya are usually small casual pubs, but Ginta has taken the concept of an izakaya menu and applied it to a cavernous 200+ seat upscale restaurant.

The interior of Ginta is moodily lit and decorated with large abstract wire bird cage like structures hanging from the ceiling and three giant kabuki style masks above the open kitchen.  We got there pretty early for dinner and the service started out fine, but the two waitresses were quickly overwhelmed as the place filled up.  Settling up and paying our check took an eternity.

Their tonkatsu ramen has an excellent broth but seemed like it had 50% more noodles than it needed, rather than being a soup with noodles, it was more like a bowl of very wet noodles.  However their Ohitashi, blanched cold spinach with dashi-shoyu broth, was exceptional.  While I had some good food there, I found the place pretty sterile and corporate, I prefer my izakaya to be more like a neighborhood pub.

Lightly dressed Takoyaki

The Dumplings:  Ginto only has one dumpling option, the Takoyaki.  They must have been running their tako-pan super hot because the outside of the takoyaki were really crispy and almost burnt colored, while the batter inside the outer shell was smooth and richly creamy. The dish comes minimally dressed, with just drizzles of Worcester sauce and Japanese mayo.  I prefer my takoyaki to be served with the full monty of drizzles of sauce and mayo, a thick carpeting of bonito flakes and a sprinkle of nori dust.   But while this was a minimalist approach to takoyaki, I did enjoy it.

The Location:  Ginto is on Market Street, near where Geary and Kearny hit Market, in San Francisco’s financial district.

Posted in Japanese, San Francisco, Takoyaki | Leave a comment

Yank Sing, San Francisco, CA

Steamed shrimp dumplings

BBQ Pork buns.

Yank Sing is open every day of the week and is one of the top rated dim sum houses in San Francisco.  It was originally opened in Chinatown by the current owner’s grandparent in 1958.  In 2001 it moved to the Embarcadero and then shortly thereafter a sister location was opened in SoMa. We got to the SoMa location 20 minutes before they opened and were first in a line that grew to 30 people deep by the time the restaurant doors swung open at 10am.  The wait time allowed us to strategize over which table we wanted; to get the best circulation of carts, avoid the periphery of the restaurant and try and get a table in the middle of the restaurant near the kitchen entrance.  This gives you access to the most carts, with the freshest steamer baskets and plates from the kitchen.  One critique of Yank Sing’s is that it is a little more expensive than typical dim sum, but one way to hold your costs down is to avoid the non-traditional dishes like honey baked sea bass at $24 a serving or the curried cream cheese shrimp wontons at over 10 bucks an order.

The Dumplings:  Everything we tried at Yank Sing was great to excellent, with the shrimp Har Gow being the standout.  The chunks of shrimp in the Har Gow were absolutely fresh and sweet and were firm and popped as I bit into them.  The rice flour wrapper was slightly chewing without being gummy.  In some dim sum houses the wrappers can be loose or slack and the shrimp fall out of the dumpling as you bite into them.  At Yank Sing’s they are practically shrink wrapped around the filling so the dumpling held together perfectly.

Pork soup dumplings

The BBQ pork buns were also excellent, the bun bread was light and super fluffy with a slight sweet flavor and they were packed with tender pieces of red BBQ Pork.  Like an overfilled strawberry jam donut, these buns were pretty messy to eat, each bite squished BBQ sauce out of the side of the bun.  Normally I avoid pork buns at dim sum because I find then too filling, but these were on the smaller side, came only two per order and turned out to be so light they didn’t have a major impact on my appetite.

The Xiao Long Bao were the least successful of the dishes.  Yang Sing serves then from the carts that roam the restaurant floor and I was afraid that by the time the cart got to us the buns would be cooling and getting rubbery.  Perhaps to address this problem the dumplings were over cooked, so they were still blazing hot when we got them, but several of the wrappers had ruptured in the steamer and leaked soup.  The dumplings were quite tasty, and while the soup was a little thin in texture, it packed flavor.

Pork pot stickers.

The pot stickers were the last plate of food we got and by then I was pretty stuffed (we ate non-dumpling dishes too), but I powered through. The pork and leak filled dumpling were expertly prepared – the thin wrappers were fried crispy golden on the bottom and steamed through on the top.  The pork filling was tightly packed into the wrappers and was savory and juicy.  This was another dish that I thought might suffer from sitting on the cart as the servers roamed the room.  But the kitchen had food runners periodically bringing plates of fresh pot stickers to the carts so everyone got fresh crispy dumplings.

The Dipping Sauce:  Each table has a tub of ground red chili in oil, a bottle of soy sauce and a jar of Chinese mustard.  You can make yourself some pretty spicy and sinus clearing dipping sauces with these ingredients.

The Location:  We hit the location in SoMa on Stevenson Street near 1st street.  This is an almost deserted, non-disrupt street parallel to Market Street.

Posted in Buns, Chinese, Dim Sum, Pan Fried, Potsticker, San Francisco, Shrimp, Soup Dumpling, Steamed, Xiao Long Bao | Leave a comment

Dumpling Strikeouts in San Francisco

I took a business trip to San Francisco and took some time out to sample dumplings.  I hit my favorite spots in Chinatown first, but struck out on the dumpling front.

Chinese Broccoli and Salt and Pepper Prawns at yuet Lee.

Yuet Lee Seafood Restaurant is a San Francisco institution that has been around for almost 40 years.  Its open until 3 a.m. which, being a full hour past bar closing time in San Francisco, has made Yuet Lee a favorite late night, last stop.  It’s head and shell on, salt and pepper prawns are frequently written about in the press and are as excellent as their reviews suggest.  But a less well known gem on the menu is the Chinese Broccoli with Oyster Sauce.  Also the Village Style Roast Squab is really good. Unfortunately, I had totally forgotten that they don’t serve dumplings.

Pork Pot Stickers

I also hit the Great Eastern Restaurant in Chinatown which is a large Hong Kong-style seafood restaurant with a wall of tanks in the back housing fish, shrimp and crab.  Great Eastern has been around since 1986 and has built a strong reputation, back in 2012 President Obama stopped in to pick up take-out.  Some of my favorite dishes are the steamed whole black bass, the pan fried flounder and sauteed clams with black bean sauce.  They have quite a few dumpling options which I haven’t really tried before, so I kicked off diner with the Pork Pot Stickers.  Unfortunately, it appears that seafood really is their thing and Pot Stickers are not.  The dumpling wrappers were thick and heavy and the filling was mushy.

Reviews of more successful outings coming up next.

Posted in Pork, Potsticker, San Francisco | Leave a comment

Asian Taste, Northampton, MA

Asian Taste opened a little under a month ago and doesn’t seem to want anyone to know its exists, no web page, Facebook, Instagram or internet presence at all.  The only mention of the restaurant that I can find online is in the minutes of the town license commission meeting when it applied for its alcohol license. The menu is mainly Thai with a few Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese dishes added to the menu.  Their vegetarian Pad Thai and Cashew Tofu were both excellent and can be made vegan.

Deep fried vegetable dumplings

The Dumplings:  Asian Taste has seven varieties of house made dumplings: Asian Steamed Dumplings, filled with shrimp, chicken, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, and black mushrooms; Asian Fried Dumplings, filled with shrimp, chicken, glass noodles, sweet corn and ginger; Steamed or Deep Fried Vegetable Dumplings, filled with cabbage, seasoned tofu and carrots; Crab Rangoon, filled with cream cheese, crab meat and minced vegetables; and Fried or Steamed Shumai filled with either shrimp or edamame.

I tried the Fried Vegetable Dumplings, which were deep fried so the wrapper was like a crispy wonton.  The filling was more on the savory fake meat, rather than leafy green, end of the vegetable dumpling filling continuum, and tasted quite good.  It was pretty obvious that the dumplings were home made, they varied a lot in how much they were stuffed with filling and the number and style of pleats.  These dumplings are vegan.

The Dipping Sauce: The dumplings are served on a plate with a built in dipping sauce pool, but it was really too small to dip the dumplings in.  The sauce itself was a fairly basic soy and vinegar mix.

The Location:  Asian Taste is so under the radar it doesn’t even show up on Google Maps and Street View shows the predecessor restaurant.  It is at 84 Pleasant Street in Northampton, which is not even on the main downtown drag, so I doubt passerby foot traffic will make up for the lack of internet visibility.

Posted in Crab Rangoon, Japanese, Korea, Shrimp, Shumai, Thai, Vegan, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment

104 Broadway Farms, New York, NY

Kimchi dumplings to-go

The Korean family owned corner deli/grocery store has been a staple in New York City for over 40 years.  The phenomena of Korean owned grocery stores started in the ’70s and spread across NYC providing a quintessential ethnic employment niche for new immigrants, and often these stores were the only source of fresh produce and food in low-income neighborhoods. Back in the late 90’s the corner Korean deli-market across from my apartment in Hell’s Kitchen was a reliable source for breakfast sandwiches with egg, cheese and ham , fresh fruit and a limited selection of greens, dairy products, a cold and hot salad bar for lunch, and fresh cut, but short lived, roses and as a bonus they would deliver beer to my apartment.

Unfortunately the business has been in slow decline since the early 2000’s (there is a 2011 NY Times article here); my old deli-market is now a bank.  A Queens College sociologist estimates that in 1995 there were ~2,500 Korean groceries in NYC, a number that had fallen to about 2,000 by 2005.  Other evidence of the shifting business is that in 2000 the Korean-American Grocers Association of New York had over 600 members, and by the time of the 2011 NY Times article there were only about 300 active members.

Pan fried Kimchi dumplings

104 Broadway Farms has expanded from the usual Korean deli offerings and is selling house cooked Korean food to-go. From the deli counter they sell roasted sweet potatoes, Bibimbap, and beef bulgogi, and on the cooler shelves in the back they have tubs of kimchi, mung bean pancakes and other jun, and cooked dumplings stuffed with pork, shrimp, chicken or kimchi.  I grabbed a tray of 10 kimchi dumplings and pan- fried them up at home.  The dumplings were stuffed with minced Napa cabbage kimchi and textured tofu that gave them a somewhat meaty mouth feel.  The kimchi was really good and instead of just being spicy, it had a complex, fermented umami flavor.  The mung bean pancakes were also really great.

It is almost self-explanatory, but 104 Broadway Farms is on Broadway at 104th street.

Posted in Kimchi, New York City, Vegetarian | Leave a comment

Momo Tibetan Restaurant

Amherst, MA recently gained a new, ostensibly Tibetan, restaurant called Momo Tibetan Restaurant.  The Tibetan dishes seem to be confined to the appetizers and Momo sections of the menu, otherwise the dishes appear to be mainly Americanized-Chinese fare.

Shogkuk Momo

The Dumplings:  there are five types of Momo on the menu; on the appetizer menu there is Shogkok Momo (Potato Momo) and on the Momo section of the entree menu they have Vegetable (filled with bok choy), Pork, Beef, and Organic Beef/Lamb Momo.  All of the Momo on the entree menu are flavored with minced onions and coriander.

The Shogkok Momo are listed on the menu as being steamed but the server claimed they are actually usually deep fried.  After a couple of nights of eating junk food, I decided to go healthy(ier) and went for the steamed preparation.  The Momos are all made from scratch in house and at lunch mine were rolled out and filled to order.  The filling was simple – potato, butter and chopped green onions – basically an amazing creamy mashed potato inside a dumpling wrapper.  The Shogkok Momo were a simple but very satisfying plate of dumplings.

Dipping Sauces: Each table at Momo Tibetan Restaurant has squeeze bottles of soy sauce, Hoisin sauce and Sriracha sauce.  The Hoisin sauce went really well with the Shogkok Momo.

The Location:  Momo Tibetan Restaurant is in Amherst MA, on the main drag of restaurants and stores on North Pleasant Street, just outside of the University of Massachusetts at Amherst campus.       

Posted in Amherst, Momo | Leave a comment

At Last the Dumpling Emoji

The dumpling emoji will display as a soup dumpling on Facebook.

Emoji 5.0 was recently released with 69 new Unicode Consortium approved Emoji, which when gender and variations in skin tone are taken into account yields 239 new emoji.  This emojji update includes the dumpling emoji, which will be displayed as different dumpling types depending on the platform you are using, from soup dumplings to gyoza to something that resembles an Empanada.

This might even supplant my current favorite emoji, the “Man in Business Suit Levitating” aka the rube boy/ska guy/Walt Jabsco emoji.  MIBL was created in the late 90’s for the MS Explorer Web Browser version of the Wingdings font (Wingding for M), by the same guy who created the Comic Sans font.  In 2014 the Unicode Consortium added many of the Wingdings images to Unicode 7, including MIBL (U+1F574), and he was incorporated into Emoji 1.0 in 2014.

Man in Business Suit Levitating on Apple iOS 10.3

Posted in News | Leave a comment

Return to Ginger Garden, Amherst, MA

I reviewed Ginger Garden about 4 years ago and at the time predicted it would become my new Western, MA go-to dumpling spot. It turns out I was wrong, Oriental Flavor and then Oriental Taste became my go-to spots.  But I did return to Ginger Garden recently to try some more dumplings. Since I was there last, they have merged their Traditional Chinese menu with their main pan-Asian menu and I am not sure if all the traditional dishes made the transfer.  This time around  I tried the pan-fried veggie dumplings and the Crab Rangoon.

Veggie Dumplings

The pan-fried veggie dumplings were stuffed with vermicelli glass noodles and shredded cabbage with a little bit of carrot.  Unfortunately, glass noodles and cabbage generally lack flavor and this filling mix was not seasoned with anything.  So overall these dumplings tasted like fried dumpling dough, which in this case were pretty thick and chewy.  As usual with a flavor challenged dumpling I used them as a sauce delivery vehicle, luckily their sweetened soy and vinegar dipping sauce had a good sweet and sour flavor.  They use egg in the dough wrapper so these veggie dumplings are vegetarian but not vegan.

Crab Rangoon

Crab Rangoon is rumored to have been originated at Trader Vic’s in San Francisco, it has been on the menu there since 1956.  The Crab Rangoon at Ginger Garden are made with wonton wrappers stuffed with the traditional cream cheese and in theory faux crab meat, and then the whole affair is deep fried.  The ones I got were almost exclusively stuffed with cream cheese with no discernible faux crab meat.  I admit that I enjoyed, somewhat guiltily, the molten cream cheese and crunchy fried wonton.  These stuffed wontons were served with a side of duck sauce.

Posted in Crab Rangoon, Vegetarian, Veggie Dumplings | Leave a comment